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Initial thoughts and common mistakes

Hey everyone, glad to see this topic is getting some traction. I've been hanging drywall for over 15 years, and the biggest mistake I see DIYers make is not planning their sheet layout. Always measure twice, cut once, and think about how the sheets will butt up against each other to minimize awkward cuts and seams.

Also, don't skimp on the screws! Ensure you're using the right type (drywall screws, not wood screws) and that they are countersunk just enough to dimple the paper without tearing it. This is crucial for mudding later on. A power driver with a depth-setting nosepiece is your best friend here.

Question about hanging large sheets

Great advice, John! My main struggle is handling those 4x12 or 4x16 sheets, especially on ceilings or in tight spaces. I've tried drywall lifts, but they can be a pain to maneuver. Any tricks for getting them up there smoothly and safely without needing a second person all the time?

Re: Question about hanging large sheets

That's a common challenge, Dave. Drywall lifts are definitely the safest and most efficient for ceilings, even if they take a bit of getting used to. For walls, if you're alone, I sometimes use temporary bracing. You can use scrap lumber wedged between the floor and the edge of the sheet to hold it in place while you start screwing. A long leveling stick can also help position it vertically. Just make sure the bracing is secure and won't slip.

Another tip: if you have a very long sheet, position it vertically first and let gravity help you. You can score and snap 4-foot sections if needed to make them more manageable, but it's usually better to hang full sheets for fewer seams.

Corner bead questions

I'm getting ready to hang drywall in a room with several inside and outside corners. What's the consensus on corner bead types? Metal, vinyl, paper-faced? And what's the best way to attach it so it stays flush and doesn't create bulges after mudding?

Re: Corner bead questions

Good question, Sarah. For most interior applications, I prefer vinyl corner bead. It's forgiving, doesn't rust, and is easier to work with for beginners. Metal is very durable but can dent and requires careful fastening. Paper-faced is great for a super-fine finish but can be prone to tearing if not handled carefully.

For attaching, you can use drywall screws or staples, depending on the bead type. Ensure the bead is snug against the drywall and plumb (use a level!). Don't overtighten screws, as this can cause the bead to bulge or dimple too much. A light skim coat over the bead first to embed it, followed by your subsequent coats, usually works best.

Screw spacing and drywall tape

What's the recommended screw spacing for drywall, especially on ceilings where sagging can be an issue? And for seams, should I always use paper tape, or is mesh tape better? I'm aiming for a smooth finish that won't crack over time.

Re: Screw spacing and drywall tape

For screw spacing, standard practice is 16 inches on center for walls and 12 inches on center for ceilings. Make sure your screws are penetrating the framing studs or joists. I always do a perimeter screw line about 1/2 inch from the edge, and then fill in the center.

Regarding tape, both paper and mesh have their pros. Paper tape, when embedded properly with mud, is generally considered stronger and less prone to cracking. It requires a bit more skill to apply without wrinkles. Mesh tape is easier to apply and self-adhesive, which is great for DIYers, but it can sometimes lead to hairline cracks if not mudded over correctly. For maximum durability, I usually lean towards paper tape on seams, especially for ceilings.

Using a scoring knife

I've been using a utility knife to score and snap my drywall, but it's tough to get a clean edge consistently. Are there special scoring knives or techniques that make this easier and more precise? I want to avoid those ragged edges that make finishing harder.

Re: Using a scoring knife

A sharp blade is key! I use a standard utility knife but always make sure the blade is fresh for scoring. Sometimes, multiple light passes are better than one deep cut. After scoring, snap the board by bending it sharply along the score line. Then, fold the paper back on the backside and cut through the paper with your knife to get a clean backside edge.

For very precise cuts, especially around outlets or windows, a drywall jab saw can be incredibly useful. It allows you to cut curves and irregular shapes accurately. Don't be afraid to use both tools!

Pre-filled mud vs. DIY mixing

I've seen pre-filled joint compound tubs at the store, and also bags of powdered compound that you mix yourself. Which is generally better for hanging drywall, especially for someone who doesn't do it every day? Is one significantly easier to work with or does it affect the final finish?

Re: Pre-filled mud vs. DIY mixing

For the initial hanging and taping (first coat), I usually prefer pre-mixed joint compound (all-purpose). It's ready to go, has a good consistency, and is forgiving. It stays workable for a decent amount of time.

However, for subsequent coats (filling, feathering) and repairs, setting-type joint compound (powdered) is superior. It hardens chemically, so it shrinks less, dries faster, and is much harder once cured. This makes it ideal for building up layers and getting a smooth finish. You just mix what you need, and it sets within a specific time frame. Just be sure to mix it thoroughly and avoid over-mixing, which can incorporate too much air.

Handling drywall in humid environments

I'm working on a project in a basement that's a bit damp. I've heard there's special drywall for high-moisture areas. What are the key differences and best practices for hanging that type of drywall? Should I still use the same screw spacing and techniques?

Re: Handling drywall in humid environments

Absolutely! For areas prone to moisture, like basements, bathrooms, or kitchens, you should use moisture-resistant drywall, often called "green board" or paperless versions. The paper facing is typically treated or replaced with a fiberglass mat to resist moisture absorption and mold growth.

The hanging techniques are largely the same. Maintain proper screw spacing (16" OC walls, 12" OC ceilings) and ensure screws are properly seated. Make sure you're using fasteners designed for these boards. Sealing seams with the appropriate tape and mud is also extra important in these environments. Consider a good vapor barrier behind the drywall if it's a high-risk area.

Dealing with pipes and wires

My room has a lot of plumbing and electrical conduits running through the studs. What's the best way to cut around these without compromising the drywall or the services behind it? I want to avoid cutting into pipes or wires!

Re: Dealing with pipes and wires

This is where precision is key. Before you even cut a sheet, visualize where the pipes and wires are. If possible, take photos or mark them clearly on the framing. For pipes, I often leave a slightly larger clearance than necessary; a tiny gap around a pipe is easily mudded over, but a crack from pressure can be a nightmare.

For electrical boxes and conduits, use a drywall saw or a sharp utility knife to make precise cuts. You can also cut a "template" by placing the drywall against the wall, marking around the obstruction, and then cutting it out. Always double-check you aren't cutting into anything live or pressurized!

Finishing seams

I'm finally getting to the taping and mudding stage. What are your best tips for getting those drywall seams perfectly flat and smooth? I'm worried about seeing the seams after painting.

Re: Finishing seams

This is the art of drywall! For seams, ensure your tape is well embedded. Apply a thin coat of mud over the tape, then run your drywall knife at a slight angle to smooth it out, feathering the edges. Let it dry completely.

The second coat is where you really build flatness. Apply a wider coat of mud, feathering even further. Use a broad knife (10" or 12") for this. For a truly professional finish, a third, even wider and thinner coat might be necessary. Sand lightly between coats if needed, but avoid over-sanding. The goal is to make the seam disappear into the wall surface. A bright light held at an angle can help reveal any imperfections before you paint!

One final question: Best screw color?

This might sound silly, but does it matter what color drywall screws I use? I've seen white, grey, and black ones. Do they have different coatings or purposes?

Re: One final question: Best screw color?

Haha, not a silly question at all! The color usually indicates the coating, which relates to corrosion resistance. Black screws are typically phosphate-coated and are best for interior use where they won't be exposed to moisture. They offer good grip but can rust if exposed.

Grey or white screws usually have a ceramic or polymer coating, offering better corrosion resistance. These are good for areas where there might be a bit more humidity or if you're concerned about rust stains showing through thin paint. For general interior wall and ceiling hanging, the standard black phosphate screws are perfectly fine and most common. Just make sure they are actual drywall screws and not something else!